Monday, December 15, 2008

Payottenland beer tour-the Lambic breweries and blenderies



Photo: Frank Boon of Brouwerij Boon pulls a sample of young lambic from a foeder




Prices for the De Cam lambic beers, inside the blendery. Really cheap!!





I visited five lambic breweries and three lambic blenderies on my trip to Belgium last month.

These were Boon, Cantillon, De Cam, Drie Fonteinen, Hanssens, Mort Subite, Oud Beersel and Timmermans.

What surprised me the most was how tart and sour the lambic and kriek beers tasted, right from the oak barrels (foeders) at the breweries that are known for producing sweet lambics and fruit beers.

There is good news: Timmermans has produced an Oude Gueuze for the first time in years. The beer is set to be released for sale in March in Belgium. I tasted the beer at the brewery when I visited with Danny Van Tricht on November 20, and we found it superb. The beers from Timmermans-hopefully including the Oude Gueuze-will be imported to the U.S. by Belakus Imports, beginning next year.

Timmermans also is considering crafting an Oude Kriek. Judging by the Kriek we tasted right from the barrels, it will be another great beer.

We also had a superb visit to the new LambikODroom Cafe at Drie Fonteinen, as well as lunch at the great beer restaurant Boelekewis in Dworp, and the Hanssens blendery, with Lorenzo Dabove and several of this Italian friends.



Cantillon brewmaster Jean Van Roy, at the Cantillon Quintessence beer and food pairing event on 22 November.



Photo: Lorenzo Dabove, the "Prince of the Payottenland" with Danny Van Tricht, at De LambikODroom in Beersel.



Lydie Hulpiau and Armand Debelder in the new LambikOdroom cafe at Drie Fonteinen in Beersel.



Photo: pouring a lambic at Hanssens of Dworp.



Photo: Bruno Reynders at Brouwerij Mort Subite, with a glass of lambic right from the barrels.



Photo: Gert Christiaens pulling a lambic at Oud Beersel



Photo: the brewmaster of Timmermans pouring a kriek from a barrel.

Sunday, December 14, 2008

New Trappist beer website



Photo: Danny talking with Brother Jules at Achel.

My very good Belgian friend, Danny Van Tricht, has created a great new website about Trappist beers and cafes.
Danny and I have visited all seven Trappist Abbey breweries multiple times.
The website is: http://trappistbier.wordpress.com
I think it's one of the most informative and professionaly produced Trappist websites.





Photo: Danny Van tricht in the cellar of Cafe Yes, Libramont, Luxembourg Province.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

New articles in Ale Street News and Celebrator Beer News



Karel Goddeau at the brewkettle, Brouwerij Slaghmuylder


I have had a couple of new articles published within the last week or ten days, and more are on the way.
In the December 2008 issue of Celebrator Beer News, I wrote about the historic Brouwerij Slaghmuylder in Ninove, East Flanders. Slaghmuylder brews the Witkap beers as well as fine lagers such as Kerstbier and Paasbier.
The brewmaster is Karel Goddeau, who is also the blender of the excellent De Cam lambic beers. I visited Geuzestekerij De Cam last month, and tasted the De Cam Lambic, Kriekenlambic and Geuze on draft at the De Cam Volkscafe, which is just yards from the blendery.
In the December 2008 issue of Ale Street News, I wrote about Brouwerij Contreras in East Flanders, and their delicious brews, as well as the new beers being imported by 12 percent imports in the NYC area. These breweries include Brasserie Cazeau and Brouwerij Contreras, among others.
I also mentioned the closing of the atmospheric HopDuvel cafe in Ghent, but have since learned that HopDuvel, which has been a beer specialty cafe since 1980, will reopen this month!
Additionally, I have a big, 3000+ word Belgian feature due out in a well-known beer magazine within the next 10 days.
Merry Christmas to everyone. Enjoy those Belgian Christmas beers!





Photo: pouring yeast into a baudelet heat exchanger at
Brouwerij Contreras in Gavere-Asper, near Ghent.
This is hands-on work!




Laurent from Brasserie Cazeau in Templeuve, Hainaut province, with the fine Tournay de Noel.

Wednesday, November 26, 2008

Belgium, November 2008: another great trip

My 18th trip to Belgium was another great success. I visited eleven breweries and three gueuze blenderies, as well as the BAB fest in Brugge, the Quintessence at Cantillon, and the HORECA Expo in Ghent.

The 2nd edition of the BAB fest in Brugge/Bruges featured 200 beers from 55 breweries, including Westvleteren. There was also food cooked with beer on offer. The location was inside the Belfry-a fine historic spot.

The Quintessence at Cantillon was a beer and food pairing event, held throughout the brewery. Many of Cantillon's beers were matched with local artisan foods.

The HORECA Expo is a professional trade fair for Hotels, Restaurants, and Cafes. Many breweries were there. Location was the Ghent Flanders Expo Center.

I visited the following breweries for the first time: Alvinne's new brewery in Heule; Brouwerij Bavik; Bouwerij Leroy (SAS); Brouwerij Huyghe; Brouwerij Mort Subite; Brouwerij Boon; Brasserie Lefebvre; and Brouwerij Timmermans.

Also made first visits at these gueuze blenderies: De Cam; Hanssens; and Oud Beersel.

I had the pleasure of repeat visits at Cantillon, Drie Fonteinen and Gaverhopke.

Look for future posts, articles and photos based on this excellent trip!

Wednesday, November 12, 2008

Belgium-trip 18, plus new articles


Photo: Armand Debelder at Drie Fonteinen


The best time of the year is upon us-Autumn-and it's also time for me to return to Belgium, for the 18th time.
I'll visit about ten breweries, the Brugge beer fest (http://www.brugsbierfestival.be/en/beer_festival_bruges-1.html) and the Quintessence at Cantillon. See http://www.cantillon.be/br/Cantillon.php?lang=3&page=18.
I'll also visit quite a few Belgian cafes that are far off the beaten path, which is always fun.
The Brugge beer fest this weekend with feature about 200 beers from 55 breweries.

As I've been so busy planning for the trip, I did not have time to post about my articles in the October/November issues of Ale Street News and Celebrator Beer News.

I had an article on Rodenbach, as well as my "Belgian Babble" column and a short piece on the Manhattan Cask Ale fest at Chelsea brewing, in Ale Street News.

I had lunch with Rodenbach owner Jan Toye in NYC in September, and he told me that a second batch of the Vin de Cereale is in a foeder (oak barrel) aging. We should see bottles of batch 1 (375 ml size) in the US at some point. He also gave me some other possibly exciting news: the brewery is considering direct bottling from some foeders with no blending.

This is important, as each indivual foeder has its own microflora and distinctive flavor. Brewmaster Rudi Ghequire gave me and two friends, Daisy Claeys of Brugs Beertje and Stephen Lipps of Mid-Atlantic Brewing News, tastes from half a dozen foeders during our tour May 22. Each was very different, and two really stood out as superb. Given there are 294 of these oak barrels at Rodenbach, perhaps there are more of these gems. I hope this idea becomes a reality

Rodenback Grand Cru, and the Foederbier served at places like Belga Queen in Brussels and Ghent, are typically blends from several different foeders. Rodenbach has never bottled a batch right from a single foeder, as far as I know.

I also had an story called "Beer and Food Celebrated in Belgium" in Celebrator Beer News, where I wrote about the excellent Belga Queen in Ghent, which has superb beer and food. I covered the world-classic Drie Fonteinen restaurant, brewery and new LambikOdroom tasting cafe in Beersel as well, and the excellent Brasserie Erasmus in Brugge.

Did I mention I'll be returning to Drie Fonteinen?

More about trip 18 after my return!


Photo: Rodenbach Foederbier at Belga Queen Ghent

Wednesday, October 22, 2008

SAVOR to return to Washington, D.C. in 2009



The SAVOR beer and food event, hosted by the Brewer's Association, will return to D.C. on May 30, 2009.
The venue will be the National Building Museum. The announcement was made at the Media Luncheon during the Great American Beer festival, October 10, 2008. I look foward to attending this great event once again!

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

The Brewer's Association SAVOR event-Washington, D.C.













Top photo: Leslie and Layna of Boston Beer, enjoying some fine chocolates from Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates.















Bottom photo: Julia and Cindy of the Brewer's Association




(Note: this article was originally intended to run in Celebrator Beer News, however with all the great coverage of Food and Beer in the new October/November issue, there was not enough room for it. However, Lucy Saunders does talk about SAVOR in her article "Dreams of Food for a Fest" on page 10 of the new CBN.)

An event to SAVOR, in Washington, D.C.

“All three sessions, with 700 attendees each, sold out in advance!” said Julia Herz, Craft Beer Program Director for the Brewer’s Association. SAVOR, described as “an American Craft Beer and Food Experience” by the BA, featured a smorgasbord of great beers from across the USA, and fine foods to match. There were 96 different beers offered from 48 different breweries, as well as 35 appetizers, which were served like tapas.
The variety of delicacies was very wide ranging, with such treats as succulent Tenderloin Bruschetta; Lager Steamed Thai Turkey with Shiitake Dumplings; and sweet treats from Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates of Kansas City, which had five different chocolates on hand. Having been to Belgium 17 times, I know great chocolates, and these were among the best I have tasted on this side of the pond. Those of you living in the Bay Area should be happy to know that this chocolatier opened a location in San Francisco in March! See christopherelbowchocolates.com.
The beer selection was equally as interesting, as many of the brews at SAVOR are not normally available in the D.C. area. Breweries from across the country were on hand, such as Deschutes, with Mirror Pond Pale Ale and Black Butte Porter, paired with Blue Cheese and Walnut Shortbread Rounds; Four Peaks Brewing with Kiltlifter and 8th Street Ale; Great Lakes from Cleveland, with Elliot Ness Amber Lager, paired with Stilton Bacon and Scallion Puffs; New Albanian Brewing, with Hoptimus Imperial IPA and Thunderfoot Oak Aged Cherry Imperial Stout, paired with Artisan Cheese from Capriale Farm; New Belgium Brewing with Abbey Dubbel and Mothership Wit, paired with Peking Duck Purses; and, among many others, Santa Cruz Mountain Brewing’s Devout Stout, which paired well with Christopher Elbow’s Raspberry Chocolates.
Tomme Arthur of Port Brewing wowed the crowd with Judgment Day Abbey Ale and Veritas 003. Natalie Cilurzo of Russian River was busy every session, serving up Pliny the Elder and Supplication to throngs of eager beer lovers.
East coast favorites such as Allagash, Brooklyn, Clipper City, Dogfish Head, Stoudt’s and Troegs were on hand as well. From the Midwest, breweries like New Holland, the St. Louis Brewery, Sprecher, and Two Brothers were standouts.
SAVOR also featured a number of seminars (referred to as Salons by the BA) on various beer and food subjects, such as one on beer and cheese pairings by Garrett Oliver; and another with Hugh Sisson of Baltimore’s Clipper City Brewing, on how to pair foods/seafoods from the Chesapeake Bay area with great beers.
I attended a Salon called “Cross Drinking Without Social Stigma” with Lauren Buzzeo of Wine Enthusiast Magazine, Ray Isle of Food and Wine Magazine, and Ken Wells of Conde Nast Portfolio. The subject: Wine writers and their beer drinking preferences, and how drinking great beers had changed their perceptions of malted beverages. Each writer chose a different beer to pair with a cheese or chocolate, and all attendees were given the same three samples, as part of a blind tasting. The audience was nearly split among the three writers as to which had chosen the best food and beer pairing.
The next Salon featured none other than Sam Calagione of Dogfish Head and Marnie Old, who is both an Assistant Dean of the French Culinary Institute, and a Wine Sommelier. The subject: a debate on pairing foods with wine and beer. Needless to say, it was a spirited one, as always when Sam and Marnie clash. Not that I’m biased, but Sam carried the debate with his beer and food pairings. OK, maybe I am biased! Beer and food can pair superbly.
Any upscale event, which SAVOR certainly was, needs a classy venue to set the stage. The Andrew W. Mellon Auditorium, an ornate building completed in 1934, was the perfect locale for the event. The Mellon Auditorium has been described as one of the finest examples of Classical Revival Architecture in America. The Brewer’s Association certainly did their research in choosing the site for SAVOR.
As to the future of SAVOR, Julia Herz had this to say: “The Brewer’s Association is receiving feedback daily on SAVOR, and we will be discussing, over the next few months, the event and its future.” See beertown.org.




Photo: a young lady with Free State Brewing, Lawrence, Kansas














Right photo: Natalie Cilurzo, Russian River Brewing






















Photo: Ken Wells, Conde Nast Portfolio